I was recently asked, "how do you reconcile your training as
a French chef with your plant-based diet?" I responded that the skills
learned in French cooking school translate to most other cuisines--you just
need to learn to work with a few new ingredients when you no longer have butter
and cream at your disposal.
This is easy to
say, but here is a delicious example of how to reimagine a classic, French
potato leek soup, called vichyssoise, using only non-dairy ingredients. I have
to say that I was shocked by how good this turned out and am kicking myself for
waiting 15 years to try making this without dairy. This recipe has earned its
place in my winter recipe rotation. The added bonus of making it dairy-free is
that this version is also cholesterol-free.
The inspiration
for this came, as it often does, from my local farmer's market. I spotted some
beautiful, baby leeks (for $1 per bunch) sitting next to an assortment of
freshly dug potatoes. For leek novices, here is a picture of regular-sized
leeks. You'll notice that unlike onions, the dark green leaves are flat, not
hollow. Any type of leek works in this recipe. I used baby leeks, which look
like scallions but with flat green leaves rather than hollow green leaves.
 |
Leeks--make sure to use only the white and light green part for cooking.
Save the dark green portion for stock. |
 |
| Before using leeks in a recipe, cut them lengthwise down the center and run water between the layers or swish them vigorously under water to remove the sand that hides between the layers. |
Vichyssoise / Potato Leek
Soup (Dairy-free & Dairy versions)
Ingredients:
¼ cup raw cashews (for cashew cream, can substitute heavy
cream)
2 Tablespoons Earth Balance (or unsalted butter)
2 large leeks, white and pale green parts only, rinsed thoroughly and
roughly chopped
1 cup unsweetened soy milk (non-dairy milk or buttermilk)
1 Tablespoon lemon juice (omit if using buttermilk)
1 quart homemade or store-bought low-sodium vegetable or
chicken stock
1 pound Russet potatoes (or use ½ Russet and ½ Yukon Gold),
scrubbed and
cut into large pieces (roughly 2”x2”)
1 bay leaf
Freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg (or ¼ teaspoon store-bought pre-ground nutmeg)
Kosher salt, to taste
Sliced chives or finely chopped parsley, for serving
Extra-virgin olive oil, for serving, optional
Directions
1.
In a measuring cup, combine cashews with boiling
water, filling to 2/3 cup line. Let rest while preparing other ingredients.
2.
Melt Earth Balance in a saucepan (at least
3-quart size) over medium-low heat. Add leeks, stir and cover with a lid. Cook for
about 10 minutes, or until leeks are very soft, stirring occasionally. Take
care not to brown the leeks as this will give soup a bitter taste.
3.
Meanwhile combine lemon juice and soy milk and set
aside.
4.
Once leeks are soft, add stock, potatoes, bay
leaf and a few twists of freshly ground black pepper to the pot and bring to
boil over high heat. Once boiling, reduce to medium-low and cover with a lid;
soup should be just simmering. Cook for 15 minutes or until potatoes give
little to no resistance when pierced with a fork.
5.
Meanwhile, dump cashew mixture into blender and
blend until completely smooth; remove mixture from blender and set aside.
6.
Once potatoes are done, scoop most of them out
of the pot with a fork, placing them in a bowl off to the side. Remove bay leaf
and then add leek and stock mixture to the blender. Blend until completely
smooth.
7.
Use a ricer or press potatoes through a strainer
or chinois (fine mesh strainer) with the back of a spoon. Alternatively, you can blend the potatoes
with the leek mixture, but the texture of the soup will be a bit “gluey” and not
nearly as creamy. Another alternative is to use a potato masher and mash well,
understanding that your soup will be a bit chunky if you do this. It will taste good regardless of which method you use.
8.
Whisk cashew cream, soymilk mixture, and nutmeg
into potatoes until smooth. Then, slowly whisk in the leek mixture. Season to
taste with pepper and salt.
9.
Serve right away to have slightly warm soup or
chill and serve cold. Sprinkle with chives or parsley and drizzle with a bit of
olive oil, if desired. Delicious served with crusty, artisan bread.
Makes 6 bowls
